Touring Ethiopia

by Dr. Hanna Rubinkowska

Ethiopia, its culture and people have been part of my life for many years. But it is different every time I come here and it makes me realize how little I know about this country.

It is most probable that if you fly to Addis from another country, you will arrive at night and your first glimpse of the city will be at its dark side. Do not pay too much attention to your first impression. It will get better when the sun rises.

Not many people appreciate the capital city of Ethiopia and many tourists try to escape from there as soon as possible. Of course it is not easy to see the best of the city if one is in a rush. The city is like a woman whose charm you are able to see only after a while.

It does not strike you at the beginning but soon you are under a spell and have no idea how it happened.

Addis - the New Flower
Most tourists come to Ethiopia because they heard about its ancient sites, old churches and thousands of years of history. It is true that many of them are ancient sites but not Addis. This city is new as its name implies “New Flower.”

It is bit over a hundred years old. But this doesn’t mean that the mystical Ethiopia is not there. And it is worth taking a risk to try to make friends with Addis Ababa.

When Menelik, the powerful king of Showa, whose aim was to rule the whole of Ethiopia moved into the area of today’s Addis Ababa, he settled on Entoto, a mountainous province of the country. He was accompanied by his wife, Taitu.

The couple were powerful, perceived by their subjects as beautiful and divine. Moreover, Menelik and Taitu had a blueprint of how to rule the country.

When they settled on Entoto they were already on their way to fulfill their dreams. Not much later Menelik was crowned niguse-negest meaning Emperor and Taitu was crowned Itege or Empress.

She was not only the Emperor’s wife, but also a crowned wife, an Empress with her own rights. The couples influenced Ethiopian fate in almost all of its aspects. The administrational and geographical shape of the country changed completely. What was old Ethiopia constituted one third of the area of the country in its new shape.

The couple also realized that contrary to Ethiopian tradition, they need a permanent capital, a place to settle and to rule.

Entoto was good, but not perfect. Cold at night and dry. Taitu used to travel down the hill to cure her aching back in the hot springs of Fil-wo-ha.

It was her idea that the lower plain was good not only for her back but for a permanent settlement too. It was then that Menelik and Taitu decided to put up their tents and grow Addis Ababa (the new flower) there.

A view from Entoto and the two churches
It is good to go to Entoto when you are in Addis. The view from above shows the city in a completely new perspective. It is quiet, without smoke with no one to bother to you and you can enjoy the eucalyptus forest and the breathtaking view over Addis.

There are also two churches on the hill, Raguel Church and Entoto Mariam Church. Both of them are reminders of the imperial couple.

One was founded by Taitu and the other by Menelik. Both are splendid but there is something extraordinary about the one founded by Menelik - the paintings.

Actually, whichever church you visit in Ethiopia, the churches and their murals do not let you leave before you carefully study each and every representation.

Aba Lukas who painted the murals of the church was an Ethiopian monk from Gonder. A very talented monk, whom I deeply believe one day art historians will admit into the gallery of the most remarkable artists somewhere between Bosch and Broughel.

Inside the city
The marriage between Ethiopia and her coffee has been hailed by many to be the best in the world and with an Italian style. Italians occupied Ethiopia for five years (1936-1941) and whatever harm they did to the country, they also left a bit of their habits behind which turned out to go very well with Ethiopian habits. Coffee places are the best example of this combination.

There are a lot of places to be visited in Addis, providing that you do not run away from this place too soon. Churches each with their own spectacular history and some of them witnessing the most spectacular moments of Ethiopian history.

Like the coronation of Haile Selassie I or another one ‘Selassie Cathedral’ which places the Emperor’s body buried in the year 2000, twenty five years after his death.

From the three imperial palaces in Addis, only one can be visited. The first palace of Haile Selassie I has been housing Addis Ababa University since 1960.

After a failed coup d’etat which was supposed to deprive the Emperor of power, he offered this palace to the University and moved to the new one. Now it is one of the governmental buildings.

Unfortunately, neither the old Menelik’s Palace located next to the Menelik Mausoleum can be visited since the office of Prime Minister has its seat there.

Churches are not everything and being a typical tourist it is good to learn a bit and visit some museums. In Addis there are quite a few of them.

The National Museum with a replica of Lucy is the best known but there are others, like Addis Ababa Museum.

The building of the museum is an old residence which allows visitors to imagine Addis Ababa’s aristocratic life style from before.

A mug of Menelik, one of his daughter Zawditu and lots of pictures are there.

If someone doesn’t find it fascinating, it is better to stay in the nearby Meskel Square where huge white pigeons have been constructed to meet the New Millennium.

According to the Ethiopian Calendar year 2000 has started on the 12th of September 2007.

Addis Downtown
Addis Ababa is a very joyful place with some quarters even more joyful than others. Piazza, the center has the most shopping and nightlife areas and used to be called ‘Arada’ before the Italian occupation. Now it is a name which is only inserted in some lyrics referring to the busy district.

There is another part of Addis that is now struggling to be the most occupied place on Saturday nights. Bole, a district spreading towards the airport is full of modern shops, restaurants and busy night clubs. The list of bars which are recommended by those who know it well will keep you there for the whole time.

At Piazza you feel more of Ethiopian life-style in comparison to Bole; especially, if you decided to stay in Itege Taitu Hotel. It is the first hotel in Ethiopia founded by Menelik’s wife. It is still offering something of the feeling of an imperial era in a very shabby, yet charming style. It is like one of those places which get old and fall apart with dignity.

Crowded streets and people calling you is what imagination brings when we think about African cities and Addis Ababa is no different. Ethiopians often talk freely to each other no European standard of pretending that we don’t see each other.

And foreigners or ‘ferengi’ I say this because it is a term applied by Ethiopians for foreigners. It is not meant to be offending even though some ferengi may feel like killing the 100th person who has called them by this name on the street. It can be tiring when used a lot, but this is one of the cultural differences that we want to experience as we travel. It seems ridiculous to complain.

Merkato
This is one place in Addis that missing it would be a big mistake. Not only for shopping but for visiting, seeing, smelling and touching. Merkato is a place that you will love to go back to.

It is one of the biggest market places in the world. It is a whole district with a huge number of tiny streets, big and little shops offering you anything you want.

As in all traditional markets, each profession has its own sectioned area. You walk through sellers offering a variety of strange parts of odd machines, threads, garments, fruits, spices, colors, aromas, and you see the people excited, smiling, talking, touching …etc. Touching is also a way of noticing…another piece of culture that we come to experience.

One may ask how many days are needed to enjoy Addis before getting tired of the crowds, cars and smoke. I say, for some two minutes might be enough while others believe that this is the place where they may find a sense for their lives.

But all are tempted to go further to explore Ethiopia out of its capital. Of course whatever you may find in Addis, the real experience and real Ethiopia is waiting for you when you leave the city.

But what can be a big surprise is that when you return to the city before your next trip or to fly back to your country, you realize that you feel at home there.

The man at the corner who is trying to sell you pots from Gambella even though you bought two from him already, seems to be your old friend. It does not matter how ugly Addis Ababa may seem to be for some, you like it more as time passes by.

Dr. Hanna Rubinkowska has plenty of travel experiences to Ethiopia and is a contributor to our site.

She has specialized in modern history of Ethiopia and currently lectures at Warsaw University, Department of African Languages and Cultures.

Dr. Hanna Rubinkowska (Ph.D.)

Addis Ababa is a vibrant city where a visitor can find different extremes and contrasts of people, culture, city life and more.

It is a bustling city with more than three million residents. It is the third highest capital in the world situated at an elevation of more than 2,000 m above sea level.

It is the diplomatic and political capital of Africa where many organizations like the African Union Head Quarters, the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa and more than 100 embassies are found.

There are many features that characterize the city which are also part of the city’s life.

I was thinking how Addis would appeal to travelers and what visitors would want to know about the city. Things like the airport, shopping centers, and hotels which are important for visitors as they visit or pass through the city.

Bole International Airport
Bole International Airport is one of the best airport terminals in Africa where the traveler can find excellent services like good selection of shops, cafes, banking facilities, baggage handling, immigration and customs services all provided in a generous space.

If you are leaving or just in transit, there’s plenty to fill in your time. Stretch your legs and do some last minutes shopping of important duty-free items.

Ethiopian Tourist Trading Enterprise (ETTE) duty free shops are filled with a numbers of outlets and a wide range of Ethiopian artifacts, jewellery, books and souvenirs as well as a fine selection of spirits, cigarettes, perfumes, sweets and chocolates.

The departure area has coffee shops selling hot snacks and you can visit the well-stocked restaurant for a more leisurely meal. If you still have a spare time you can check your emails or surf the internet at the internet cafes available there.

Hotels and restaurants
Addis Ababa has hotels that are available in a wide range of types to suit all pockets.

One is the Addis Ababa Hilton which has 356 guest rooms including suits, executive floor rooms and self contained apartments. You will love the Hilton not only for the service but also for its beautiful and unique architectural designs and motifs. It has exotic and cozy restaurants, popular bars, health club facilities, and much more.

Also the Luxurious Sheraton Addis is unique for its luxury collections combining the richest elements of Ethiopian culture with the international neo-classical architecture.

Addis Ababa has a great number of restaurants that serve injera and all the delicious wots (sauses). You will find yourself tempted to try the food at some of the wonderful cuisines and traditional restaurants.

Many of the restaurants feature live singing and dancing to keep you delighted as you enjoy the exotic foods.

Ethiopian traditional restaurants serve wonderful Ethiopian fare and usually feature a local ‘Azmari’ band and traditional dancing. But if you are keen on international styles, there are good number of restaurants serving European and Asian cuisines as well as cafes, discos, and art galleries.

You should also try the thick and undiluted fruit juice in Addis. It is absolutely great!

Coffee
Coffee is one of the country’s strongest icons. “I have been to other African countries and drunk coffees that taste great, but Ethiopian coffee is far better and even the best of all”. These are the words of Mickle one of my guests when I asked him about Ethiopian coffee.

For those who have time and want to have the real Ethiopian experience, the coffee ceremony should not be missed. Be prepared for three delicious cups if invited to some one’s house for coffee.

Ethiopians themselves love to drink coffee. For my wife and I, one of the best times of the day is our coffee time. I think coffee is more than a drink for Ethiopians. It is also one of the biggest export items of the country, even though almost 50% of the harvest is consumed locally.

So if you arrive in Addis, try the coffee. The city has cafes on every street serving excellent black coffee or macchiato.

Museums, Shero Meda and Souvenir Shops
If you have time for a city tour you may want to visit the important museums found in Addis which exhibit some of the world’s famous archeological, cultural and religious treasures. Among them the national museum possesses ‘Lucy’ the bones of one of the oldest hominids ever found.

Trinity Church Cathedral attracts many visitors being renown for its impressive architectural design.

The churches are filled with wonderful paintings and ancient manuscripts all well worth a visit.

Also not to miss a wonderful birds eye view of the city from above. Take a trip to the two churches on the hills of Entoto.

Another exciting experience for a guest in Addis is shopping for exotic and traditional woven clothes at Shero-Meda. There are beautiful traditional dresses hanging in all colors and designs available for all ages and at affordable prices.

You are sure to find something for yourself, your children and the whole family, traditionally woven or with printed design on a variety of cotton t-shirts, scarves and handbags.

Merkato Africa’s largest open air market
If you like shopping in Addis, Merkato should be the place. It is the largest open-air market in Africa where you can find anything from electronics to garments, from spices to automobile spare parts and a whole lot more.

Merkato is Addis’s most crowdest, bustling, and colorful area. If you have time and just penny in your pocket, go to Merkato, you will always find something there.

Of course if you prefer a more modern shopping experience, you may need to go to Bole where a good number of new malls have sprouted up. Also walk up on Churchill road if you want to purchase great souvenirs for the best deals.

Buses, taxis, listros, woyalas, and beggars
Much seen in the streets of Addis are the blue taxis transporting most of the city’s population. A slight annoyance are the woyalas (drivers assistants) calling on passengers and naming city areas as you travel in the city.

Also to be seen on the streets are the friendly and hard working listros (shoe shiners) who always want to polish your shoes.

A sad sight in the city are beggars, nagging everyone for money. Hundreds flock to the city for jobs and a better future, but many of them unfortunately end up on the streets. However, giving them money may not be a good idea or helpful for the beggars. Thanks to some rehabilitation projects they are decreasing in number.

Addis Ababa has lots of faces, which leave a visitor with mixed feelings and experiences. It is also a very safe city and base to explore the country’s great historical, cultural, and diverse attractions.

One thing for sure, the city provides you with the feeling of being at home and the people are courteous and helpful whenever you go or wherever you want to explore.

Eskinder Hailu
Turning Your Dream Vacation Into a Reality

Imagine how boring life would be without fun…fun…those moments enjoyed with those closest to us, especially family. A vacation where lovers share romance, workaholics take a break and become rejuvenated and family members become closer to each other.

Family and fun are the most important parts in ones life

People need fun to be part of their life, to enjoy life.

We want work to be fun and enjoyment instead of a burden, we want to take a vacation and spend our leisure time relaxing or enjoying different activities. We want something different in a vacation that perhaps we don’t get in our everyday lives.

We need time to share our thoughts, dreams, desires, and feelings for a free, flowing and intimate relationship where nothing is hidden or restrained and where there is no fear or embarrassment.

A vacation often provides the relaxed setting where people feel a greater freedom to express themselves.

Some people lead lives thinking their jobs should take precedence over their families. That is sadly and all too frequently a mistake. Your family especially your spouse, should come first.

Getting your priorities in order

If you are too busy to spend time with your spouse and the rest of your family too, I think your priorities are out of order. You need to spend sometime rethinking your priorities and make a commitment to making some changes in your life.

Devoting time to family should be the major activity one should be engaged in. Some people sadly spend much of their life carrying their work home in a briefcase. This is definitely not a recipe for spending time with the family.

Family time may consist of time spent with parents or close friends, time spent in visits and vacations. It may mean time spent with small children, teenagers, or adults.

What better pleasure would there be for parents and children than taking timeout for a vacation. A time that leaves children with an unforgettable experience, young lovers filled with excitement and for some perhaps a rekindled relationship.

A family vacation is important because

• It is a basic human need. People need to relax, take a break from the hustle and bustle of life, to refresh and breathe a new air
• It fosters love and relationships, builds bonds, mends broken friendships and brings families closer together
• It rejuvenates oneself for better work, greater performance, relieves burdens and stress
• It gives one a chance to experience other places, people, culture, food etc

This is the exciting part, an opportunity to enjoy the benefits of a vacation, the restaurants, exotic foods, nature, scenic views, beautiful beaches, etc

We make time for the things and people we love

A lack of time should not be the excuse for not enjoying the benefits of a family vacation.

You should plan your weekends, summer, or winter to visit nearby or remote places. Or, to experience something different a new interest, some exotic foods, different cultures, to visit and talk with people who are outside your normal social circle.

Money should also not be an excuse for not planning your family vacation. What you need is just a little research to find that special deal, the vacation that fits your pocket and of course your interest. You may want to plan for short-stay vacations 2 to 3 days, instead of 7 days or 10 days instead of 14 days.

Start planning your family vacation today

G|ive quality time to yourself and to your family. Decide on the best time to spend and check for some practical tips and advice, but whatever else you do, take a vacation.

I guarantee you and your family will be rewarded with the joy and blessings that only a family vacation can bring.

Eskinder Hailu
Turning Your Dream Vacation Into a Reality

A few weeks ago I was travelling to the western part of Ethiopia for some project work. The last time I had been there was five years ago.

At that time I remember, my journey was so exhaustive, due to the difficult gravel road which made the place almost inaccessible. I never thought I would go there again.

Improving Roads

But this time many things had changed. Though some parts of the road are still under construction, many parts of it are completed and are easing the difficulties travellers and drivers use to face.

Such infrastructural improvements especially on the road sector are also significant in many other parts of the country. Good quality roads are to be found now in increasing numbers, leading to all corners of the country.

Improving Air Transport

Not only the road sector but also the upgraded and growing air transportation sector has also added good value to travelling to and within Ethiopia.

The old terminal at Bole International Airport has been renovated to serve the domestic and international flights within the past five years.

The Bole International Airport also ushers in a whole new era for Addis Ababa, bringing the runway up to 21st century standards including capability to accommodate the largest jets. The main airports within the country have also been expanded and upgraded for better service.

The main and most visible improvement in the airport sector is, of course, the new terminal with its high and spacious design. Passenger convenience and service has been the guiding principle of the new building. Space has been increased to five times the previous main terminal, which is now a massive 40,000 sq meters.

Improving Hotels and Services

Many new hotels have been built and many others are under construction in the capital as well as in the main tourist destinations. Hotels offering very good services, ranging from the luxurious ones, to the budget types, are operating in many regions of the country.

Continuing improvements make Ethiopia an important and enjoyable tourism destination and it has emerged as one of the top ten must visit places in 2007. A testimony to which was recently given by Frommer’s, renowned for their travel expertise for over 50 years.

Of course there are still many remaining assignments before Ethiopia is able to fully offer her most hidden treasures to the world.

There are still areas that are difficult to access and where hotels, lodges or other facilities are hard to find, even though such areas make attractive and amazing tourism destinations.

However much has improved and there is a great and bright hope for Ethiopia to sustain and grow even more in the future.

Eskinder Hailu

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